I am not a very eloquent person. And as such is it rather difficult for me to properly describe the wonderful place that is Archive Bookstore, one of my favorite bookstores in all of London. Quirky? Eccentric? Unique? A huge mess? Why not all of these? If Studio Ghibli ever decides to make a movie about an old bookshop, they will come here for inspiration.
To say that it is cramped would be an understatement. It is filled to the brim with books. If it’s not books, it’s plastic bags and boxes, of course filled with books. For some reason there is a giant pillow that looks like a corn cob on top of one of the shelves. You don’t visit this place because you need a new novel to read during your commute. No, you will most likely visit it for two reasons:
- You like music and/or play an instrument
- You like to really dig and explore, aimlessly, without a actual goal. Like me.
Archive specializes in music. Sheet music to be specific. Take the narrow stairs to the basement and you will end up being surrounded by all kinds of scores to score (see what I did there?!). Chambermusic, jazz, orchestra, religious, entertaining, if you name it, you will find it here, regardless of your instrument of choice. Assuming you can make your way through all the piles, drawers and boxes that is. According to the owner, Charlie Watts used to come here to look for music. There is even a piano, which is covered in sheet music, of course. I am not an expert but I am pretty sure that it doesn’t work anymore.
People with a higher BMI might find it challenging to navigate the place. Most of the books I’ve seen are old hardcovers. Only a small fraction of their inventory is modern fiction. But who cares when you have time to flip through old editions of Harpers Bazaar, learn about ballroom dancing in the 50s, or what kind of anthems were en vogue with the Tudors. If you want to show off you might as well go through gigantic hardcover editions of Don Quixote or Dante’s Inferno. And prices are quite reasonable.
Layout
The ground floor can be divided into front and back. The back is again divided by a larger shelf in the center. If you come too early, your path might be blocked by boxes and tables that are usually outside during the day. Right when you head towards the back, there are stairs on the right, leading downstairs. The path is blocked by a board that says “Music Below Please Lift”. In the basement you will find music sheets, a broken piano and some books about music. It is not for claustrophobic people.
Selection
Just a little bit of fiction. Lots of older books about Art, Music and History. Mainly hardcovers.
Vibe
Cramped. Dusty. Narrow. Chaotic. Amazing.
Verdict
I can easily spend +2 hours here. Don’t come too early because opening times are more of an estimate. Officially they open at 10:30 am. But sometimes it can be 11am…or even later.
Location
Marylebone, near the South of Regent’s Park. The closest tube station is Edgeware Road (Bakerloo or Central Line). Don’t expect a sign outside, they must have lost it years ago. Luckily there are no other shops around (only a small cafe on the other side of the street) so you can’t miss it.
Contact
83 Bell Street
London NW1 6TB
Tel: 0207 402 8212 (though I don’t think that they will be able to find their phone in this mess)
(overseas: +44 207 402 8212)
Hours
Monday to Saturday: 10:30am to 6pm. Take these times as estimates! Will probably open a bit or much later.